DIY Project

Buying guide · $50 to $300

Which cordless drill should you buy?

The shelf brackets are in your hand, the screws are on the counter, and your old drill died halfway through the first hole. Time for a new one. The battery you pick matters as much as the drill.

The short answer

Most homes should buy an 18V or 20V Max brushless drill kit with a 1/2 in chuck and two 2.0 Ah batteries. That costs $100 to $180. Pick the battery brand with care, because your next tools will share it.

What to buy

Tight budget

18V or 20V Max brushed drill kit, 1 battery

Hangs shelves, builds furniture and drills wood and drywall without complaint. One small battery means waiting on the charger during long jobs.

$50 to $90

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Light jobs and tight spots

12V drill kit, 3/8 in chuck, 2 batteries

Small and light, so it's kind to your wrist and fits inside cabinets. It runs out of muscle on big holes and long screws.

$70 to $130

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Most homes

18V or 20V Max brushless drill kit, 1/2 in chuck, two 2.0 Ah batteries

Enough power for anything around the house, with a spare battery always charged. It's heavier than a 12V and costs a bit more than brushed.

$100 to $180

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Brick and block

18V or 20V Max brushless hammer drill kit

Adds a hammering action for holes in brick, block and mortar, and works as a normal drill too. It's heavier, and poured concrete is slow going.

$130 to $220

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Decks and lots of screws

Brushless drill and impact driver combo kit

The drill makes the holes and the impact driver sinks long screws without wearing out your wrist. The impact driver is loud, so wear ear protection.

$150 to $300

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Rent or borrow instead?

Drilling a few holes in a concrete slab or wall? Rent a rotary hammer for the day. It does in seconds what a hammer drill fights through.

What the numbers mean

Voltage
12V tools are lighter, and 18V tools have more muscle. 20V Max and 18V are the same battery, measured two different ways.
Brushless
A motor with no carbon brushes to wear out. It runs longer per charge and lasts longer, for about $30 to $60 more.
Amp-hours (Ah)
The size of the battery's fuel tank. 2.0 Ah keeps the drill light, and 4.0 or 5.0 Ah runs longer and weighs more.
Chuck size
The biggest bit shank the drill grips, either 3/8 or 1/2 in. A 1/2 in chuck takes larger bits and hole saws.
Clutch
The numbered ring behind the chuck. It stops the drill turning at a set force, so screws don't strip or sink too deep.

What not to pay for

  • Bare tool listings

    Bare tool means no battery and no charger. Your first drill should be a kit.

  • Picking the brand at random

    Batteries fit only their own brand's tools. Choose a platform you'd be happy buying a saw and a sander from later.

  • Chasing torque numbers

    Any 18V drill has plenty for household work. Weight and how it feels in your hand matter more.

Safety

Wear safety glasses, and check for wires and pipes before you drill into a wall. Clamp small pieces instead of holding them. Big bits can bind and twist the drill, so use the side handle if yours came with one.

Questions

What's the difference between a drill and an impact driver?

A drill makes holes and drives screws with a clutch for control. An impact driver adds rapid twisting blows that sink long screws and lag bolts. Buy the drill first.

Is a 12V drill enough for home use?

For furniture, shelves, curtain rods and small holes, yes. It struggles with hole saws, long deck screws and masonry. If you plan bigger projects, start with 18V.

Is brushless worth the extra money?

For most people, yes. You get more work per charge and a motor with less to wear out. If the drill comes out twice a year, brushed is fine.

Written by the DIY Project team. We recommend by type and spec, cheapest option that does the job first. How we check

Updated October 3, 2026. Prices are estimates.

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