Start with a compact trim router, about 1 to 1.25 HP, for $70 to $150. It rounds edges and cuts small grooves, and that's most of what a router does. If you want one router for everything, get a 2 HP combo kit with both bases for $180 to $300.
What to buy
First router
Compact trim router, 1 to 1.25 HP, 1/4 in collet
Small enough to run with one hand, and it handles edge profiles, hinge pockets and light grooves. It takes only 1/4 in shank bits and bogs down in deep cuts.
$70 to $150
See options on Amazon →No cord in the way
Cordless compact router
Nothing to snag while you walk around a tabletop. Batteries drain fast under load, and the price often leaves out the battery and charger.
$100 to $200
See options on Amazon →One router for everything
Mid-size combo kit, 2 to 2.25 HP, fixed and plunge bases
One motor swaps between two bases and takes both 1/4 and 1/2 in bits. It needs two hands and feels like a lot on small pieces.
$180 to $300
See options on Amazon →Router table work
Full-size router, 3 to 3.25 HP, variable speed
Spins big panel and molding bits without slowing down. It's heavy and tiring to use by hand, so it mostly lives under a table.
$300 to $450
See options on Amazon →Links go to Amazon. As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Need one rounded edge on one shelf? Borrow a trim router from a friend or a tool library. Sandpaper on a block softens an edge for free.
What the numbers mean
- Fixed base
- You set the bit depth, lock it, and it stays there. Best for edge work and for mounting in a router table.
- Plunge base
- The motor rides on spring-loaded posts, so you can lower a spinning bit into the middle of a board. You need it for mortises, stopped grooves and inlays.
- Collet size
- The collet is the sleeve that grips the bit, sized 1/4 or 1/2 in. Bits with 1/2 in shanks are stiffer and cut smoother, and only mid-size and larger routers take them.
- Variable speed
- A dial that runs from roughly 8,000 to 25,000 RPM. Big bits need slower speeds, so you want it once your bits pass about 1 in wide.
- Soft start
- The motor ramps up over a second instead of jerking in your hands. Nice to have on anything bigger than a trim router.
What not to pay for
- Giant bit sets
You'll reach for about 5 bits: straight, roundover, chamfer, flush trim and cove. Buy those in carbide and add more as projects ask for them.
- One deep pass
A deep cut burns the wood and strains the motor. Take passes of about 1/4 in or less until you reach full depth.
- A router table on day one
Learn the tool by hand first. Plenty of woodworkers never need the table.
Unplug the router or pull the battery before you change bits. Wear eye and hearing protection, clamp the work down, and seat the bit shank well into the collet. Along an edge facing you, move the router left to right, against the bit's spin.
Questions
Should my first router be fixed or plunge?
A compact fixed-base router covers edges, and that's most beginner work. If you want to cut mortises or grooves that stop mid-board, buy a combo kit with both bases.
Can a trim router do everything a big router can?
No. It handles small bits and shallow cuts well. Wide profile bits, deep grooves in hardwood and router table work need a 2 HP or bigger motor.
Are 1/2 in shank bits better than 1/4 in?
For bigger bits, yes. The thicker shank flexes less, so cuts come out smoother. For small roundovers and chamfers, 1/4 in shanks work fine.
Written by the DIY Project team. We recommend by type and spec, cheapest option that does the job first. How we check
Updated October 3, 2026. Prices are estimates.

