DIY Project

Buying guide · $70 to $450

Trim, fixed or plunge: which wood router should you buy?

Your shelf edges are sharp and square, and the ones in the store are smooth and rounded. That's a router. It also cuts grooves, hinge pockets and signs, once you pick the right size.

The short answer

Start with a compact trim router, about 1 to 1.25 HP, for $70 to $150. It rounds edges and cuts small grooves, and that's most of what a router does. If you want one router for everything, get a 2 HP combo kit with both bases for $180 to $300.

What to buy

First router

Compact trim router, 1 to 1.25 HP, 1/4 in collet

Small enough to run with one hand, and it handles edge profiles, hinge pockets and light grooves. It takes only 1/4 in shank bits and bogs down in deep cuts.

$70 to $150

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No cord in the way

Cordless compact router

Nothing to snag while you walk around a tabletop. Batteries drain fast under load, and the price often leaves out the battery and charger.

$100 to $200

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One router for everything

Mid-size combo kit, 2 to 2.25 HP, fixed and plunge bases

One motor swaps between two bases and takes both 1/4 and 1/2 in bits. It needs two hands and feels like a lot on small pieces.

$180 to $300

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Router table work

Full-size router, 3 to 3.25 HP, variable speed

Spins big panel and molding bits without slowing down. It's heavy and tiring to use by hand, so it mostly lives under a table.

$300 to $450

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Rent or borrow instead?

Need one rounded edge on one shelf? Borrow a trim router from a friend or a tool library. Sandpaper on a block softens an edge for free.

What the numbers mean

Fixed base
You set the bit depth, lock it, and it stays there. Best for edge work and for mounting in a router table.
Plunge base
The motor rides on spring-loaded posts, so you can lower a spinning bit into the middle of a board. You need it for mortises, stopped grooves and inlays.
Collet size
The collet is the sleeve that grips the bit, sized 1/4 or 1/2 in. Bits with 1/2 in shanks are stiffer and cut smoother, and only mid-size and larger routers take them.
Variable speed
A dial that runs from roughly 8,000 to 25,000 RPM. Big bits need slower speeds, so you want it once your bits pass about 1 in wide.
Soft start
The motor ramps up over a second instead of jerking in your hands. Nice to have on anything bigger than a trim router.

What not to pay for

  • Giant bit sets

    You'll reach for about 5 bits: straight, roundover, chamfer, flush trim and cove. Buy those in carbide and add more as projects ask for them.

  • One deep pass

    A deep cut burns the wood and strains the motor. Take passes of about 1/4 in or less until you reach full depth.

  • A router table on day one

    Learn the tool by hand first. Plenty of woodworkers never need the table.

Safety

Unplug the router or pull the battery before you change bits. Wear eye and hearing protection, clamp the work down, and seat the bit shank well into the collet. Along an edge facing you, move the router left to right, against the bit's spin.

Questions

Should my first router be fixed or plunge?

A compact fixed-base router covers edges, and that's most beginner work. If you want to cut mortises or grooves that stop mid-board, buy a combo kit with both bases.

Can a trim router do everything a big router can?

No. It handles small bits and shallow cuts well. Wide profile bits, deep grooves in hardwood and router table work need a 2 HP or bigger motor.

Are 1/2 in shank bits better than 1/4 in?

For bigger bits, yes. The thicker shank flexes less, so cuts come out smoother. For small roundovers and chamfers, 1/4 in shanks work fine.

Written by the DIY Project team. We recommend by type and spec, cheapest option that does the job first. How we check

Updated October 3, 2026. Prices are estimates.

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